Kouign amann, the classic pastry from Brittany and pronounced kween ahman, is relatively obscure even in France. But in recent years it has shot to fame, courtesy of a few dedicated pastry chefs who resolved to make the delicieux but notoriously challenging pastry commercially available.
Dominique Ansel, whose ‘DKA’ (Dominique’s Kouign Amann) was his best-selling item before the cronut, describes the calorific layers of caramelised sugar, salted butter and flaky pastry as a ‘caramelised croissant’, while others call it a ‘croissant on steroids’. Around ten New York bakeries, from Épicerie Boulud to Bouchon Bakery, now turn them out.
Interestingly, you can replicate its flavours (i.e. cheat) in a bread pudding by using day-old croissants and a healthy dose of melted butter and sugar, the pudding’s custard interior also mimicking a real kouign amann. This would be my number one choice of dessert to take to a dinner party in Manhattan. It’s sophisticated yet comforting, and always a hit with New Yorkers, who just love bread pudding and kouign amann.