On our last day on a recent trip to the Philippines, my mother made a parting merienda request: bibingka. It was many years since she'd had one of her childhood favourites. It was just as she remembered: warm, springy, coconutty and totally moreish. In the Philippines, bibingka is baked over coals in a caldero (terracotta pot) lined with banana leaves, which diffuses heat and adds a subtle flavour. This version, using galapong (rice dough) holds true to the original, but is cooked in a dish in the oven. Make sure to use fragrant jasmine rice, which grinds up well. You do have to start a few days ahead, but each task is not time consuming.