An Alsatian speciality involving the tang of sauerkraut and the smokey intensity of pork, choucroute is often served with potatoes. I first realised that they were extraneous to the experience beneath the vaulted ceiling of London’s The Delaunay. I was more than happy to leave my perfectly turned tubers to the side to save room for a slice of torte. Since that day, I’ve never missed them. At the outset, choucroute may seem involved, but it’s really more of an assembly job, since the sauerkraut and sausages come ready formed. Be sure not to omit the apples and juniper berries – they provide the necessary floral notes to balance the acidity of the cabbage. Beyond that, a variety of mustards on the table to share will help pull the fattiness of the pork into line. Add a lager or two, or a nice bottle of Riesling, and you’ve got the makings of a proper celebration. (And if you’re looking for a fitting treat with which to finish the meal, try the Salzburger Nockerl or the Black Forest notes of the Chocolate, Black Bean and Cherry Cake).