Cold udon or soba with hot dipping sauce

Method

1. Combine the dashi, mirin, soy sauce and ginger in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Hold at a simmer while you prepare the noodles.
2. Cook the noodles according to the package instructions (5–8 minutes at a simmer for soba, 1–5 minutes at a boil for udon), then drain and rinse them thoroughly under cold water. Massage and tousle them as you rinse, to get all the residual starch off. They should feel slippery and smooth rather than sticky and gluey. Drain them well, pressing gently to squeeze out excess water. Transfer to a plate or shallow bowl, and pour the hot broth into cups or small, deep bowls.
3. Garnish the noodles with the spring onions, nori and sesame seeds. To eat, grab a mouthful of noodles, swirl them in the sauce, and slurp. When all the noodles are gone, top up the remaining sauce with hot water and sip the broth, contentedly.