This French technique of steaming is one of my favourite ways to cook fish. Anything can be encased in the paper to impart flavour – it’s quick, healthy and creates little mess.
This year, whether the outcome of a poor summer or the result of planting them out too late, our tomatoes remained green. But in the true Nordic spirit of making the best of climate adversity we transformed them into these tart slithers, which serve to do the job of lemon and accompany the dill perfectly. Crown dill, the flower head of the dill herb, has a more liquorice and intense flavour than the leaves. If you can’t find it you can replicate the flavour by using fresh dill and a very light dusting of liquorice root powder instead.