I have very early memories of this sweet and salty treat. My parents always had a party on Christmas Eve, complete with handbell ringers, and every year we would spend the whole day making tasty little morsels to pass around. Devils on horseback always passed muster, whereas vol au vents with many a filling came and went, along with the seventies. Stuffed mushrooms, mangetouts and all things minimal blew away with the eighties. By the nineties, when interest from the rest of the family had waned, I pressed on with many an ambitious snackette, but always with a trusty prune wrapped in bacon by my side. Such a comfort. I have, on occasion, speared them with a (de-leafed) rosemary or thyme stalk for extra aromatic depth, but if life feels too short for such things, just strew some herbs over the bottom of the baking tray. These make perfect party food: the amounts below are easy enough to multiply up if feeding a crowd; and, once they’re wrapped in bacon, your devils on horseback will happily sit in the fridge until you’re ready to pop them into the oven.