This is my version of a restaurant dish I’ve had in various guises, and would always order if it was on the menu. I love the combination of meaty, flaky white fish with a slightly golden crust, cooked with delicate sweet clams and wilted, but still-crunchy lettuce. I’ve used pollock because it’s cheaper and more plentiful than cod, and, in my opinion, just as tasty, but you could use cod, coley, hake or haddock. Cooked lettuce is a favourite of mine – I love what applying heat does to its texture, making it silky while retaining a subtle fresh flavour and satisfying bite. I’ve used home-made fish stock to give the sauce depth and refinement – it’s well worth making if you have time. All the work here is in what chefs call the ‘mise en place’ – the preparation – and is ideal for a romantic evening in or dinner party, as, once you’ve done the prep, it all comes together quickly, leaving you time to have your fun.