This Portuguese-inspired dish originated in Goa in the sixteenth century, heralding the arrival of the chilli in India with what is one of the hottest dishes in the Indian repertoire. First made almost as a preserved pickle, tiny amounts were eaten with lots of bread or rice. Gradually the amount of chilli has been lessened to transform it into a main course curry, but it can still bring tears to the eyes. It is traditionally made with pork and red wine vinegar, but you can substitute beef, goat, lamb, duck or venison if you prefer. Serve it with steamed basmati rice.