Boudin blanc

Boudin blanc

By
From
Marque
Makes
10 to 12 sausages
Photographer
Stuart Scott

In 1990, a devastating fire almost destroyed the Sydney institution, Chef ’s Warehouse. At the time I was an apprentice, so I went to the fire sale on the premises hoping to add to my meagre batterie de cuisine. From a pile of charred books I found the Roux Brothers’ book, French Country Cooking. It was this one book that caused me to become completely obsessed with the cooking of France and especially its magnificent regional cuisine. This adaptation of a recipe from Michel Roux is a wonderful rendition of a classic from the Champagne area.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Dice 200 grams firm pork back fat and 200 grams chicken breast and chill to 0 to 2°C.
  2. Cut ½ medium brown onion into fine brunoise and sweat with 50 grams unsalted butter until translucent. Refrigerate until cold.
  3. Refrigerate a food processor bowl and blade until cold; I like to use a stainless-steel Robot-coup for this as the bowl will stay cold for longer. Heat is the enemy for this recipe due to its high fat content – if it splits it will fail.
  4. Put the diced fat, chicken breast, 15 grams fine table salt, 5 grams freshly ground white pepper and the onion in the food processor. Blend well. Mix 50 millilitres brandy with 12 grams cornflour and add to the mixture. Blend to a fine mousse. With the motor running, add 5 cold eggs one at a time, making sure each is thoroughly combined prior to adding the next egg. Add 50 grams finely grated sourdough breadcrumbs. At this stage place the bowl and its contents in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
  5. Remove the bowl from the refrigerator. With the motor running, add 500 millilitres pouring cream in a steady stream. You need to work quite quickly though so the mixture does not curdle. Keep iced cold once finished.
  6. Soak 200 grams pork sausage casings in cold water to reconstitute them, then rinse before starting to fill them. Using either a sausage stuffing machine or a piping bag with a medium nozzle, fill the casings with the filling and tie them off to make portion-sized sausages. Steam in a combi steam oven at 75°C for 1 hour, or until firm to touch. Remove from the oven and chill them quickly in a blast chiller, then refrigerate until required.
  7. To serve, slit the skin and gently pan-fry in butter until hot and golden. Classically these would be served with sautéed apples flambéed with a little Marc de Champagne. They are also brilliant for lunch with a fried duck egg and a simple salad of bitter greens.
Tags:
Marque
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Pei
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