Cô Giang Street in Saigon’s District 1 is hands-down one of my favourite food streets. As you walk down it, you can see and smell clouds of rich aroma percolating in the air. Where it crosses with Đe Thám Street is my go-to place for this noodle dish, one of the few Vietnamese noodle dishes to be eaten without a broth but, instead, with the popular Vietnamese dipping sauce nuoc cham, and lots of it too – enough to immerse the vermicelli and the fresh herbs. The pork skewers, which are traditionally made up on lemongrass stems, are chargrilled over charcoal, and the aromas of the lemongrass and the herbs are bewitching.