Two questions I am often asked are, ‘what is “pho?’ and, ‘where does it come from?’ To answer the second, though the exact origins are unclear, rumour has it that pho was created in North Vietnam in the early 20th century. Both Chinese and French cooking heavily influenced the dish, which may have been derived from the French beef stew ‘pot-au-feu’. A hearty, broth-based noodle soup often made with beef or chicken, it varies from region to region. In northern Vietnam the broth is likely to be lighter and made with fewer ingredients, the noodles served with thin beef slices and ginger, or chicken and lime leaves, and accompanied by bean sprouts, herbs, lime and fresh chilli on the side. In southern Vietnam, the broth is a lot sweeter and made from more ingredients, and the accompaniments also include hoisin sauce, fish sauce and chilli paste.
To get my pho fix in Saigon, I visit District 1’s Pho Ngoc on Ho Hao Hon Street, which has been running for over 30 years. The diners are regular customers – I meet a man who tells me his grandma has been eating here since she could remember and that she brings him here every Saturday as a family ritual. Add a poached egg to the broth when ordering for extra silkiness.