Phetchaburi Soi 5… Remember this address, because you seriously want to come here when you travel to Bangkok – it’s got one of the best concentrations of street food in the entire city. Plus, the residential neighbourhood around here has a particularly nice, authentic vibe. There’s a great (and wildly popular) restaurant called P’aor, in an old shop-house. As you walk in, you notice hefty pots simmering away, filled with a deep orange-red broth that looks for all the world like a French seafood bisque. Except you know it’s not when the whiffs of lemongrass, galangal, chillies and makrut leaves start to take hold. It’s actually tom yum and while I’ve had a lot of tom yum in my time, it’s never been anything like this. It’s not clear, as tom yum usually is, but rather rich and creamy and I find out their secret is in stirring tomalley – which is essentially the custard-like goo found in prawn and lobster heads – and tinned evaporated milk into the soup. Lobster makes the dish even more lavish and special. By the way, P’aor cook plenty of other amazing things but their tom yum, unique in Bangkok, is definitely their signature. The serve is so enormous (you get an entire lobster, plus stuffed squid, stuffed crab, mussels, salmon and boiled egg) that you can easily share it among two or even three people – it’s a dish and a half. This version has been pared back a bit, but is no less delicious.