This classic street snack is found all over Jakarta and is also very common in Malaysia. It’s basically a kind of fishcake formed into a long, flat rectangle, wrapped in banana leaf and grilled. I come across it in Chinatown, where an elderly woman walks through the crowds, carrying a beautiful bamboo tray stacked neatly with hundreds of them. She yells ‘otak otak’ as she goes, to attract customers. She’s got several types; one that’s pretty much just plain mackerel, pale in colour and infused with the distinctive, smoky flavour of the banana leaf. Another type is golden inside and richly flavoured with aromatics like turmeric, makrut leaves and chilli. I love both styles but the recipe I’ve done here is for the spicy version. It’s a perfect dish for a barbecue; prep lots and serve them as a snack on their own or eat them with some rice, a sambal and a few other favourite dishes.