As I kick around Jakarta, where I discover foods from all over Indonesia, one cuisine I really enjoy is Sundanese. It’s from the western part of Java and the way they eat there is to sit down to basically a smorgasbord of pre-cooked dishes. A typical meal has a huge variety of vegetable, meat and fish options, with plenty of rice and herbs too. Little hole-in-the-walls and even street vendors specialise in this cuisine, serving so many choices it’s mind-boggling. Curries, steamed dishes, deep-fried goodies; they’re all here and you just pile your plate with whatever catches your fancy. It’s all so appetising and the little place I really love is one that makes me feel like I’m in Morocco. Pyramids of plates piled high with food; everyone eating with their hands; an incredibly warm vibe... it honestly feels like North Africa. One of my Sundanese favourites is this fish head curry. It’s not overly heavy, or terribly spicy, but it’s a perfect example of the way Indonesians balance flavour so well. Oh, and don’t be nervous about the idea of fish heads. There’s loads of lovely meaty bits and wonderful flavour in them and sucking all of this out is a great way to eat. And then there’s all that tasty, curried gravy...