When you mention Indonesian food you automatically think of nasi goreng, it’s a dish everyone knows. But when I arrive in Jakarta, everyone starts telling me I have to try this version. ‘Gila’ means ‘crazy’, so this dish is literally ‘crazy fried rice’. This is because they heave absolutely everything into it; you name it, it’s there. We’re talking meatballs, sausage, vegetables, chicken gizzards, shredded chicken and sometimes even corned beef, which is a little unusual. They toss it all in a wok with kecap manis and loads of garlic. Jalan Sabang is home to some serious street eats and the nasi goreng gila stall, which is rather famous, is a big reason I come down here. The cooks are so skilful with their use of the wok. They use super large ones and I love seeing the care they take with their rice. They cook it the day before, so it’s nicely dry and doesn’t clump together; the secret of great fried rice is keeping each grain separate. The entire time they’re cooking they have their woks super hot so they impart that distinct, smoky ‘breath of the wok’ into the dish. It’s always packed and lively around here, making it a great place to hang out as well as eat.