Chiang Mai is at its best after the sun sets, as the night markets come alive. The energy is buzzing, the aromas and colours trap you there for hours, and it’s the perfect place to discover true authentic Thai cooking. I learnt a lot from the cooks at the night markets: I moved from one barbecue stall to another, picking their brains trying to get the perfect marinade for their chargrilled pork belly. This is the recipe I ended up with after talking to four different cooks. I decided to prepare this dish among all the action of the night markets. It was so much fun — I felt like a real local. Try to buy your pork belly from an Asian butcher and ask them for young pork belly, suitable for chargrilling. For the very best flavour, marinate it overnight.