Mussels éclade, fennel and saffron rouille

Method

1. 1. To arrange the mussels on your board, start in the centre using the nails as props. Position each mussel so that its shell hinge is facing upwards. This is so that the mussels do not fill with ash as they cook.
2. 2. Pile the pine needles on top of the mussels, ensuring that the mussels are completely covered to a depth of at least 20 cm (8 in).
3. 3. Prepare the rouille. In a saucepan, bring the milk and saffron to the boil, then remove from the heat. Pass the potato and garlic through a fine sieve and place in a food processor with the egg yolks. Blend, gradually adding the olive oil in a steady stream. Add the warm saffron milk, check the seasoning and strain through a fine-mesh sieve. Add the chopped fennel fronds and the lemon juice and zest and combine well.
4. 4. When you are ready to eat, set light to the pine needles and stand back, as they will catch and burn with an intense flame. The fire will eventually run out of fuel and the flames will extinguish themselves, leaving the mussels with a light covering of ash.
5. 5. The shells will be hot, so allow them to cool slightly before handling. Allow guests to prise the mussels from their shells, dip in the rouille and devour.