Caviar, I hear you cry! Why would we take such a fine ingredient and subject it to the primitive grill? It sounds crazy, I know, but perhaps more than any other ingredient, caviar highlights the boundless potential of cooking over a wood fire. I first grilled caviar at Etxebarri and it was one of the greatest challenges of my time there. It took almost a year until we were happy with the result (for the full story, see page 17). It was also one of the few occasions that the idea came before the ingredient, as caviar was not local to the Basque country. Although we tried serving it with various accompaniments, from grilled crab blood custard to tiger milk (otherwise known as chufa) and even snail caviar, we felt it spoke loudest and clearest just on its own.