Wood pigeon ragù

Method

1. Wash the pigeons in cold water to get rid of the blood, then dry them with a clean towel. Put them in a large bowl with all the marinade ingredients and leave them to marinate in the fridge for 1–2 hours.
2. Meanwhile, make the 'battuto' by using a mezzaluna or a sharp knife to finely chop the ingredients together. After the birds have marinated, drain them, keeping the marinade and fishing out the vegetables. Put the pigeons onto paper towel to dry it out or, as Fabrizio kept saying, scollare bene (pat dry with the towel). Season them with the salt and pepper.
3. Put the oil in a large pan over a medium heat and, when hot, sauté the birds with the battuto. Brown them all over for about 10 minutes. Wash the vegetables from the marinade briefly in cold water, cut them into small pieces, then add them to the pan with the rigatino or bacon. Fry for 10–15 minutes or until soft. Add 200 ml of the marinade. Cook over a medium heat until the scent of wine has disappeared and the sauce has reduced. Pour in the stock to almost cover the meat. Bring to the boil and cover the pan. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1–1 1/2 hours or until the meat falls from the bones. Remove from the heat and leave until the pigeon is cool enough to touch. Pick the meat and skin from the bones, taking care to remove and discard any small bones. Chop the meat finely on a board with a large cook’s knife or mezzaluna. Put this chopped mixture back into the pan and reheat to further reduce the sauce. If it looks dry, add a little hot water.
4. Meanwhile, if using, cook the pici in plenty of salted boiling water with a dash of oil until al dente. They will take 7–10 minutes, depending on their size. Drain and toss into the pan to combine with the sauce. Serve in warm bowls straight away.