On the hilltop above Cefalù in the tiny village of Sant’Ambrogio you will find a gem of a restaurant owned by the Zito family. Mimmo, the owner and chef, let me try his latest invention of wild fennel semifreddo. I’m afraid you will have to take my word for the fact it was wonderful – sadly, I was unable to extract the recipe from him as he had just made it up that morning and had no quantities to give me! Instead, we also loved the creamy marsala semifreddo below, with its surprise of caramelised nuts inside and its indulgent, warm red wine sauce.