This brightly coloured, almost jewel-like version of caponata was our favourite as we toured the island. This dish is all about achieving the correct balance between sweet and sour; care should be taken when adding the vinegar and sugar. Vincenzo Clemente, who owns the Cin Cin restaurant in Palermo, got the balance just right and taught us his version. At one point, he told us, caponata was covered with cocoa powder as a deterrent against flies. Too much and it is bitter but a little enriches the dish. He likes to serve this with octopus or swordfish but it is also good with bread, panelle, cheese or sliced meats.
Caponata di pesce, made with tuna or swordfish, was originally a dish for the wealthy but the Sicilian poor replaced the fish with aubergines (eggplants). Salting is not necessary with the modern deep-purple variety as they are no longer bitter. Traditionally the aubergines are fried but we prefer to roast them in the oven.