In the market in Ortigia I met an Australian woman enjoying a late breakfast of a glass of mellow white wine and a board of antipasti: tiny samples of the local food, such as caponata, the sweet and sour vegetable dish served in various guises all over the island, accompanied by panelle, locally sun-dried tomatoes, olives, sliced meats and cheeses, and, typically, a hunk of Sicilian Focaccia with Sesame Seeds. The idea of eating several dishes at one sitting dates back to Roman times in Sicily and has changed little since.