In Morocco, ras el hanout is a spice mix generally used in savoury food, but it also works well in sweet recipes. You can buy ras el hanout pre-mixed, but it’s easy enough to make your own: mix together a teaspoon of ground cumin and half a teaspoon each of chilli powder, ground cinnamon and ground ginger. Make sure everything is mixed well and store in an airtight jar.
We like to use sel de Guérande for this cake, a sea salt from the salt marshes in southern Brittany, because it is quite delicate and helps get that balance of sweet and savoury this cake requires. The use of buttermilk also keeps the cake moist and it should be kept in an airtight tin for at least two days before you eat it, to allow it to become even more moist and flavoursome.