Jim: I am born-and-bred Australian so I guess most Italians would argue that I don’t understand a good bolognese. I have cooked, eaten and experienced the beauty of this simple dish more times than I can count; though I wasn’t raised on it in my youth, I have made up for it in my later years. My version is not simple and fast. If you want to produce a beautiful – and quick – bolognese, Stefano’s is the best I have tasted, but give both a try and decide for yourself. Wagyu tail can be hard to get, in which case oxtail, osso bucco or a good brisket can be used in its place.