Although Iran is a huge saffronproducing country, we didn’t find quite the variety of saffronflavoured seafood dishes you do on the Mediterranean. The preference seemed to be for turmeric, perhaps because it’s cheaper or maybe because it’s closer to the Indian tradition that’s influenced some Iranian food. I think it’s a bit of a shame, given that saffron has a natural affinity with seafood, so I’ve given it a starring role in this stew.
Fish tastes so much sweeter when cooked on the bone, and steaming is a great way to cook a delicate fish like John Dory. To steam more than one fish at a time, you’ll either need a big collection of steamer baskets or a fish kettle, or, simplest of all, a rack set into a large water-filled baking tray that you then cover with aluminium foil.