We learnt to make kuku-ye sabzi, one of Persia’s best-loved omelettes, during our travels around Iran. It is similar in texture to a frittata, thick with herbs and leafy green vegetables (sabzi means ‘greenery’ in farsi), and sometimes comes garnished with walnuts or barberries. We love to add grated zucchini – especially white zucchini, which are more delicate and less bitter than the dark green variety – although either will do. Cheese is a deviation from the purist Iranian kuku but, hot from the oven, its melting softness is irresistible. Try to find a cumin-flavoured Gouda if you can.
A non-stick, ovenproof frying pan – no more than 20 cm in diameter – is ideal for making kuku. We’ve also made this very successfully in a non-stick cake tin.