A good butterhead is a really unique lettuce – it’s tender, bright, light and incredibly quenching to eat. I like it most sodden in mustardy French dressing (as here), and I even like it when it goes soft, like it’s been dressed for supper, uneaten and left out all night. However, it’s not just the dressed leaves of the butterhead that make this warm salad so good. Proper, sweet black pudding, fried crisp on the outside and fatty-soft in the middle, and crunchy croûtons untempered in the folds of the leaves make the whole thing magical.