I adore cooking lettuce. Sometimes, I like to wilt it with chicken stock and plenty of black pepper, parsley and lovage. Sometimes, I fry wedges of small lettuce in butter and olive oil, with salty anchovies and lots of garlic, until its sugars caramelize, then I serve it with heaps of grated Parmesan cheese. And soup, I make soup a lot with lettuce. But, with their close, tight leaves, little gem lettuces are also perfect for cooking on the barbecue or chargrilling. You want to get the embers good and hot, to give some real colour to the cut face of the lettuce. The contrast in this warm salad comes from the fresh, cool crunch of cucumber. It’s all brought together with a beautiful, sort-of dressing, made from white beans, yoghurt and tahini.