I tried many different sorts of gnocchi when living in Italy, but I’ll always remember a particular occasion. The restaurant was run by an old woman with a beautifully wrinkled face. Her family rushed between the tables, asking for personal preferences, and then returned to her so she could decide everyone’s menu. ‘Si preferisce bistecca o pollo stasera?’ (‘Do you prefer steak or chicken tonight?) I was asked. ‘Mi dispiace, ma io non mangio carne’ (‘Sorry, but I don’t eat meat’). The young man looked surprised and then waved his grandmother to our table to confront me. She explained that they had the best meat in Rome and she was certain I would love it. I could at least choose the chicken. I stood firm and, disappointed, she said she would make something simple for me. Her homemade potato dumplings in pesto might have been the simplest dish in her kitchen, but they were heaven to me. I am sure that her version wasn’t gluten-free or made from sweet potatoes, but ours are. They have a sweet and slightly nutty flavour, a pretty orange colour and a wonderfully soft texture. — David