As much as I love grilled, charred courgettes with bite, I love these creamy, buttery ones more. The lemon serves to lift the dish and the nutmeg gives it almost a nursery feel. You can do this with most green vegetables: try chard, sweating the stems down until softened before you add the shredded leaves, or finely sliced runner beans – with the latter, you might want to take out the nutmeg and replace with some lightly toasted almonds.