Good food is almost always achieved by doing it the hard way, while great food exemplifies the wisdom of self-restraint. Its downfall can be impatience – not letting your pan reach the right temperature before searing a piece of fish, for example. Organise yourself around the best ingredients available to you and cook them with enough restraint to allow you to find their expression, not yours. You may like brightly coloured greens, but if you don’t cook collards until they are the deepest shade of army green then you’re showing your impatience with the best way to get flavour out of this dish. It needs a little time to get to know itself.
Not many Southern vegetable dishes can trump a bowl of braised greens in potlikker. Collard greens are better known in the UK as spring greens. You can use any hearty, bitter green, such as turnip greens, mustard greens or a mixture of these. Gather up a mess of your liking and cook them into the potlikker base below. The smell of the slowly cooking greens will lure everyone into the kitchen.
The ham hock meat cooked in the vinegar here is what I call pickled pork. It’s a nice recipe on its own and goes very well with Creole mustard and a plate of braised turnips.