I urge you to try salt-marsh lamb when it’s available – generally during the latter part of spring and into early summer. The sheep graze on coastal marshland, which is abundant in herbal grasses, samphire, sorrel and sea lavenders. Such a rich and varied diet gives their meat a sweet-briny, almost floral, note. The wild garlic pesto ties in nicely with the season for salt-marsh lamb, and is a fresh, punchy counterpart to the unctuous meat. Regular new season’s lamb would, of course, work brilliantly here too.