With extensive river systems and with much of China a decent distance from the sea, much of the fish eaten in China has been plucked from fresh waters, not the sea. Catfish, carp, tilapia, roach and perch are common, with regionally specific species popping up too. Barramundi works beautifully here; its soft, mild, flaky flesh is the perfect foil for the sweet nubs of garlic and thick, spicy sauce.