The clear, sweet flavours of steamed seafood remind us of eating at Beidaihe, east of Beijing and once a beach reserved for Communist Party officials, unionists and the like. These days it’s way more egalitarian and the seafood there is sensational. When we cook lobster or crab, we prefer to steam or gently poach it, taking care not to overcook it, which toughens all that succulent (and expensive) flesh. We serve it simply, with just a few sauces, like our fabulous XO and a slightly sweetened soy and ginger sauce.