More than a recipe, this is an assemblage of preserved fungi and meats which in Italy works very well as an antipasto. The task of an appetiser is to titillate the stomach, possibly with something vinegary – which preserved mushrooms are, even though they’re kept under oil. The exercise is also to offer to the guests the very best of the autumn harvest, particularly when the harvest was abundant (for it is always wonderful to eat later in the year what you preserved and kept so religiously). You could have pickled ceps or honey fungus, or some cultivated mushrooms, or a mixture. And you can use smoked goose, smoked wild boar or simply speck instead of the duck.